Where to eat, chosen by us.
The places we send our own friends to. Most are a few minutes on foot from our homes, and the walking times below are counted from there.
Breakfast and pastry Quick and good Trattorias in Testaccio Pizza Worth the walk Gelato and drinks
Breakfast and pastry.
Coffee standing at the bar, a cornetto or a maritozzo with cream: this is how Testaccio starts the day.
Pasticceria Linari Pastry shop and café
1 min on foot
A family bakery since 1971, used by the whole neighborhood: cornetti, maritozzi with cream, bomboloni. Also good for an aperitivo.
Via Nicola Zabaglia 9 Mon, Wed–Sun 06:30–21:30 · Tue until 13:30
Map Website
Pasticceria Andreotti Pastry shop, café and gelato
1.2 km (0.7 mi) · 16 min on foot
A historic Roman pastry shop, open since 1931: cakes, mignon, cornetti, its own gelato and savoury dishes.
Via Ostiense 54/b Every day 07:30–24:00
Map Website
Quick and good.
For the day you arrive, or a lunch between sights.
Trapizzino Roman street food · €
1 min on foot
Roman stews served in a pocket of pizza. Right by the door, open until late.
Via Giovanni Branca 88 Mon–Thu and Sun 12:00–24:00 · Fri–Sat 12:00–01:00No booking needed
Map Website
Mercato di Testaccio Covered market
7 min on foot
Produce, cheese, meat, fish and street-food stalls. Try Mordi e Vai for sandwiches and Box 47 for supplì.
Via Beniamino Franklin Mon–Sat 07:00–15:30 · Closed Sunday
Map Website
Panificio Passi Bakery · €
2 min on foot
The historic bakery of Testaccio: pizza bianca and rossa by weight, bread, supplì, fried baccalà.
Via Mastro Giorgio 87 Morning to early afternoon
Map
Alice Pizza Pizza by the slice · €
5 min on foot
Pizza al taglio with many toppings, to take away or eat in.
Via Marmorata 111 Mon–Sat 10:00–22:00 · Sun 11:00–22:00No booking needed
Map Website
Trattorias in Testaccio.
The Roman classics, cooked by families who have been here for generations. Book ahead, especially at weekends.
Felice a Testaccio Roman · €€€
5 min on foot
A Roman institution since 1936, known for cacio e pepe tossed at the table.
Via Mastro Giorgio 29 Mon–Wed 12:30–14:30, 19:30–22:30 · Thu to 23:00 · Fri to 23:30 · Sat–Sun 12:30–15:00, 19:00–23:30Booking required, by phone only (Mon–Sat 10:00–19:00)
Map Website
Flavio al Velavevodetto Roman · €€
6 min on foot
Historic trattoria with dining rooms built into Monte Testaccio. Great cacio e pepe, good for families.
Via di Monte Testaccio 97 Every day 12:30–15:00, 19:00–24:00Booking recommended
Map Website
Pecorino Roman · €€
8 min on foot
Family-run, with produce from the market every day: gricia, carbonara, artichokes. Generous portions.
Via Galvani 64 Tue–Sun 12:30–14:30, 19:30–23:00 · Closed MondayBooking recommended
Map Website
Piatto Romano Roman · €€
3 min on foot
A simple, welcoming trattoria with local ingredients and the Roman classics.
Via Giovanni Battista Bodoni 62 Lunch and dinner every day · Closed Wednesday eveningBooking recommended
Map Website
Perilli Roman · €€
8 min on foot
A Roman institution since 1911, known for carbonara and amatriciana.
Via Marmorata 39 Mon–Tue, Thu–Sun 12:00–15:30, 19:00–23:00 · Closed WednesdayBooking recommended
Map Website
Da Oio a Casa Mia Roman · €€
6 min on foot
An old-school trattoria: amatriciana, cacio e pepe, artichokes. Generous portions, fair prices.
Via Galvani 43 Mon–Sat 12:30–15:00, 19:30–23:30 · Closed SundayBooking recommended
Map
Angelina a Testaccio Roman and creative · €€–€€€
6 min on foot
Rustic-chic rooms near the old slaughterhouse, Roman classics and creative dishes, a terrace in summer.
Via Galvani 24/A Every day 12:00–15:30, 19:30–23:30 · Tuesday dinner onlyBooking recommended
Map Website
Pizza.
Thin and crisp, from wood ovens. No bookings: arrive early or wait a little.
Pizzeria Da Remo Roman pizza · €
2 min on foot
Thin Roman pizza from a wood oven, the best in Testaccio. Great bruschette; swings in the park across the road.
Piazza Santa Maria Liberatrice 44 Mon–Sat 19:00–01:00 · Closed SundayNo bookings: arrive before 19:30
Map Website
Il Grottino dal 1936 Roman pizza · €
5 min on foot
Historic pizzeria and trattoria: thin pizza, supplì and fiori di zucca.
Via Marmorata 165 Mon–Tue, Fri–Sun 18:30–23:30 · Closed Wednesday and ThursdayNo bookings: the queue moves fast
Map Website
Worth the walk.
Across the river in Trastevere, or near the Colosseum, when you want to go further.
Da Enzo al 29 Roman, Trastevere · €€
1.2 km (0.8 mi) · 17 min on foot
One of the best-loved family trattorias in Rome. Honest food in a simple room.
Via dei Vascellari 29 Mon–Sat 12:00–15:00, 18:30–22:30 · Closed SundayNo bookings: arrive early
Map Website
Taverna Trilussa Roman, Trastevere · €€€
1.7 km (1.1 mi) · 24 min on foot
Pasta served in its own pan, in a well-known Trastevere room.
Via del Politeama 23/25 Mon–Sat 19:00–24:00 · Closed SundayBooking required
Map Website
Pianostrada Creative, Trastevere · €€€
1.1 km (0.7 mi) · 16 min on foot
Contemporary cooking in a relaxed, stylish setting.
Via della Luce 65 Tue–Fri 18:30–23:30 · Sat–Sun 12:30–15:30, 18:30–23:30 · Closed MondayBooking recommended
Map Website
Il Tempio di Iside Seafood, near the Colosseum · €€€
2.5 km (1.6 mi) · 35 min on foot
One of the best seafood restaurants in Rome: raw fish, pasta with sea urchin, lobster.
Via Pietro Verri 11 12:00–15:00, 19:00–23:00 · Closed SundayBooking strongly recommended
Map Website
Gelato and drinks.
Gelato in the afternoon, a glass on the piazza in the evening.
Gelateria La Romana Gelato
1.1 km (0.7 mi) · 16 min on foot
Artisan gelato with fresh ingredients, open since 1947.
Via Ostiense 48/A
Map Website
L'Oasi della Birra Beer and wine bar, and shop
5 min on foot
Over 500 beers and a long wine list, with cheese and cured meats. Tables outside in summer.
Piazza Testaccio 38/41
Map
Angelineria Cocktail bar
6 min on foot
Creative and classic cocktails, for an aperitivo or after dinner.
Via Galvani 24
Map Website
Bar Testaccino Neighborhood bar
2 min on foot
Where the neighbors stop for a coffee or an informal drink.
Via Mastro Giorgio 58–60
Map
Staying with us? We book your table. Tell us the evening and how many you are. Trattorias fill up, especially at weekends.
Photo of Trapizzino by Diego Zitelli (CC BY 3.0), via Wikimedia Commons.