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Eat and drink

Where to eat,
chosen by us.

The places we send our own friends to. Most are a few minutes on foot from our homes, and the walking times below are counted from there.

Breakfast and pastry.

Coffee standing at the bar, a cornetto or a maritozzo with cream: this is how Testaccio starts the day.

Pasticceria Linari

Pasticceria Linari

Pastry shop and café
1 min on foot

A family bakery since 1971, used by the whole neighborhood: cornetti, maritozzi with cream, bomboloni. Also good for an aperitivo.

Via Nicola Zabaglia 9
Mon, Wed–Sun 06:30–21:30 · Tue until 13:30

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Pasticceria Andreotti

Pastry shop, café and gelato
1.2 km (0.7 mi) · 16 min on foot

A historic Roman pastry shop, open since 1931: cakes, mignon, cornetti, its own gelato and savoury dishes.

Via Ostiense 54/b
Every day 07:30–24:00

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Quick and good.

For the day you arrive, or a lunch between sights.

Trapizzino

Trapizzino

Roman street food · €
1 min on foot

Roman stews served in a pocket of pizza. Right by the door, open until late.

Via Giovanni Branca 88
Mon–Thu and Sun 12:00–24:00 · Fri–Sat 12:00–01:00
No booking needed

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Mercato di Testaccio

Mercato di Testaccio

Covered market
7 min on foot

Produce, cheese, meat, fish and street-food stalls. Try Mordi e Vai for sandwiches and Box 47 for supplì.

Via Beniamino Franklin
Mon–Sat 07:00–15:30 · Closed Sunday

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Panificio Passi

Panificio Passi

Bakery · €
2 min on foot

The historic bakery of Testaccio: pizza bianca and rossa by weight, bread, supplì, fried baccalà.

Via Mastro Giorgio 87
Morning to early afternoon

Map

Alice Pizza

Pizza by the slice · €
5 min on foot

Pizza al taglio with many toppings, to take away or eat in.

Via Marmorata 111
Mon–Sat 10:00–22:00 · Sun 11:00–22:00
No booking needed

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Trattorias in Testaccio.

The Roman classics, cooked by families who have been here for generations. Book ahead, especially at weekends.

Felice a Testaccio

Felice a Testaccio

Roman · €€€
5 min on foot

A Roman institution since 1936, known for cacio e pepe tossed at the table.

Via Mastro Giorgio 29
Mon–Wed 12:30–14:30, 19:30–22:30 · Thu to 23:00 · Fri to 23:30 · Sat–Sun 12:30–15:00, 19:00–23:30
Booking required, by phone only (Mon–Sat 10:00–19:00)

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Flavio al Velavevodetto

Flavio al Velavevodetto

Roman · €€
6 min on foot

Historic trattoria with dining rooms built into Monte Testaccio. Great cacio e pepe, good for families.

Via di Monte Testaccio 97
Every day 12:30–15:00, 19:00–24:00
Booking recommended

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Pecorino

Pecorino

Roman · €€
8 min on foot

Family-run, with produce from the market every day: gricia, carbonara, artichokes. Generous portions.

Via Galvani 64
Tue–Sun 12:30–14:30, 19:30–23:00 · Closed Monday
Booking recommended

MapWebsite

Piatto Romano

Piatto Romano

Roman · €€
3 min on foot

A simple, welcoming trattoria with local ingredients and the Roman classics.

Via Giovanni Battista Bodoni 62
Lunch and dinner every day · Closed Wednesday evening
Booking recommended

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Perilli

Roman · €€
8 min on foot

A Roman institution since 1911, known for carbonara and amatriciana.

Via Marmorata 39
Mon–Tue, Thu–Sun 12:00–15:30, 19:00–23:00 · Closed Wednesday
Booking recommended

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Da Oio a Casa Mia

Roman · €€
6 min on foot

An old-school trattoria: amatriciana, cacio e pepe, artichokes. Generous portions, fair prices.

Via Galvani 43
Mon–Sat 12:30–15:00, 19:30–23:30 · Closed Sunday
Booking recommended

Map

Angelina a Testaccio

Roman and creative · €€–€€€
6 min on foot

Rustic-chic rooms near the old slaughterhouse, Roman classics and creative dishes, a terrace in summer.

Via Galvani 24/A
Every day 12:00–15:30, 19:30–23:30 · Tuesday dinner only
Booking recommended

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Pizza.

Thin and crisp, from wood ovens. No bookings: arrive early or wait a little.

Pizzeria Da Remo

Pizzeria Da Remo

Roman pizza · €
2 min on foot

Thin Roman pizza from a wood oven, the best in Testaccio. Great bruschette; swings in the park across the road.

Piazza Santa Maria Liberatrice 44
Mon–Sat 19:00–01:00 · Closed Sunday
No bookings: arrive before 19:30

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Il Grottino dal 1936

Il Grottino dal 1936

Roman pizza · €
5 min on foot

Historic pizzeria and trattoria: thin pizza, supplì and fiori di zucca.

Via Marmorata 165
Mon–Tue, Fri–Sun 18:30–23:30 · Closed Wednesday and Thursday
No bookings: the queue moves fast

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Worth the walk.

Across the river in Trastevere, or near the Colosseum, when you want to go further.

Da Enzo al 29

Roman, Trastevere · €€
1.2 km (0.8 mi) · 17 min on foot

One of the best-loved family trattorias in Rome. Honest food in a simple room.

Via dei Vascellari 29
Mon–Sat 12:00–15:00, 18:30–22:30 · Closed Sunday
No bookings: arrive early

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Taverna Trilussa

Roman, Trastevere · €€€
1.7 km (1.1 mi) · 24 min on foot

Pasta served in its own pan, in a well-known Trastevere room.

Via del Politeama 23/25
Mon–Sat 19:00–24:00 · Closed Sunday
Booking required

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Pianostrada

Creative, Trastevere · €€€
1.1 km (0.7 mi) · 16 min on foot

Contemporary cooking in a relaxed, stylish setting.

Via della Luce 65
Tue–Fri 18:30–23:30 · Sat–Sun 12:30–15:30, 18:30–23:30 · Closed Monday
Booking recommended

MapWebsite

Il Tempio di Iside

Seafood, near the Colosseum · €€€
2.5 km (1.6 mi) · 35 min on foot

One of the best seafood restaurants in Rome: raw fish, pasta with sea urchin, lobster.

Via Pietro Verri 11
12:00–15:00, 19:00–23:00 · Closed Sunday
Booking strongly recommended

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Gelato and drinks.

Gelato in the afternoon, a glass on the piazza in the evening.

Gelateria La Romana

Gelateria La Romana

Gelato
1.1 km (0.7 mi) · 16 min on foot

Artisan gelato with fresh ingredients, open since 1947.

Via Ostiense 48/A

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L'Oasi della Birra

L'Oasi della Birra

Beer and wine bar, and shop
5 min on foot

Over 500 beers and a long wine list, with cheese and cured meats. Tables outside in summer.

Piazza Testaccio 38/41

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Angelineria

Cocktail bar
6 min on foot

Creative and classic cocktails, for an aperitivo or after dinner.

Via Galvani 24

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Bar Testaccino

Neighborhood bar
2 min on foot

Where the neighbors stop for a coffee or an informal drink.

Via Mastro Giorgio 58–60

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Staying with us? We book your table.

Tell us the evening and how many you are. Trattorias fill up, especially at weekends.

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Photo of Trapizzino by Diego Zitelli (CC BY 3.0), via Wikimedia Commons.